If this film is SDR, then aq-mode 3 would help keep details in the dark, but if HDR then aq-mode 2 is my go-to. I consider 1080 the tipping point for H.265, but its true that it finds its advantage over H.264 at higher resolutions and lower bitrates. This may come from either better picture quality or a smaller file size, if someone was to go from fast to slower I would expect both. The encoder preset is where you can trade your time for better compression at diminishing returns. Alternatively if you're trying to preserve the grain, set the encoder tune to grain. I think this happens because the encoder is mistaking the grain as genuine detail when you don't have a high enough bitrate to capture it. Also stabilizes the film grain dance in those low complexity areas. It helps remove the crunchyness from the around the boarders of moving high detail areas over static low detail areas. Old cartoons, medium preset, animation tune br, light preset, film tune dvd, ultralight, film tune. On the topic of filters, I have realized significant gains, in both quality and file size, from NLMeans denoise. Seeing its effect on sewn thread in a br made me re rip my dvds. I recommend disabling the interlace detection/deinterlacing on known progressive sources. The resolution/framerate listed in the preset name is an upper limit, only resizes if over. What are you trying to do with the audio? I usually pass through ac3, but re-encode lossless to opus. I've read x264 is a solid encoding format I should be using and then to encode on slow or very slow, but can anyone please direct me to the rest of the settings I should try?īoth handbrake and x264 have presets, changing the handbrake preset is going to change a bunch of stuff besides the video. I'd like to keep my videos in the 5gb to 10gb range and retain solid quality and all and I've heard handbrake might be what I want to try next, but I'll be honest, even after trying to do my own research I still don't fully understand what I should be doing. The files generally come out at around 5.6gb to 8gb and look and sound pretty good, but I'd say one out of every five movies or one out of every eight or so episodes will have ugly grey artifacts in dark scenes. I've been using makemkv to make an initial lossless rip (dump?) of my movies, then using DVDFab at "best quality" with 2 encoded passes and for the most part this works out. The short version is my blu-rays are taking up way too much space, so before sticking them into storage I've been ripping and encoding them to put on my media server. PCWorld is not responsible for any damages that result from this how-to.Thank you all in advance I know this can be subjective and there's lots of people asking for help on these matters. You probably won’t face any legal consequences if you simply rip your legally purchased movie collection for your own use, but we’re just going to present the instructions and let you decide for yourself whether to follow the steps. Such procedures currently occupy something of a legal gray area. Here’s how to use the HandBrake application to rip copies of your DVDs into whatever format you like, so you can play the movies wherever and however you want.ĭisclaimer: To rip encrypted DVDs, you’ll need the DVD43 plug-in, which circumvents the publisher’s digital rights management technology. Although new disc releases with Digital Copy come with one free digital version of the movie, you need some outside help for dealing with DVDs that were released before Digital Copy became mainstream. Addicted to movies? You can watch video on your tablet, smartphone, or portable media player, of course–but since none of those gadgets have optical drives, you can’t put any of your DVDs into them.
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